Saturday, June 23, 2012

Stellenbosch & Table Mountain, Take 2


It’s the general creakiness of the train and the way it violently rattles around turns in the track that make you question its integrity.  The general feeling of uncertainty that permeates the car, the graffiti that plasters its walls, and the hooligans hanging out the car door that they’ve propped open are what make you question your choice to make like a local and take the train in the first place.


Like jazz music, the call and response went something like this:
“Cape Town? Cape Town?”
 “This train!  Straight, straight, straight to Cape Town!”
Right.  We had to switch trains thrice.
Which involves waiting, waiting, waiting.
We followed instructions from locals riding whatever train we happened to be on at the time. 
So, who knows—maybe that first train would’ve gotten us “straight, straight, straight” to Cape Town.
But it was late—a chilly, black night and when we finally glimpsed that Cape Town station sign it elicited a potent mixture of joy and relief.  
This was our ride back from our own, not so carefully orchestrated trip to Stellenbosch. 
Apparently, it’s rather imperative to have a vehicle, hired or not, to get you around since taxis are rare and those that exist cater to the opulent winery hotels.  
Stellenbosch is positively splattered with wineries, but they are not within walking distance. 



To solve this dilemma, we befriended a few kind locals with pickups, which was cheap, effective, and overall, a smashing success.
A note on safety:  Yes, we should have done our research.  
However:  1) research is infinitely harder without internet and 
2) we were sick of being regimented.
Let me clarify, however, that we had the luxury of conducting ourselves in such an impulsive, cavalier manner because of Ashish’s presence.  Were it merely the girls, the unfortunate reality is, we would have planned entirely differently.  


in the pickup

That said, it was an adventure that I wouldn’t have had any other way. 
We visited two wineries—Spiel and Asara.  Both were exquisite.  Since winter has a purging effect on tourists, the resort was also exclusively at our fingertips, making for a bizarrely intimate experience.  It would have been nice to have the entire day at Stellenbosch as, apparently, the town itself is quite charming. 



At 3,500 feet, however, our morning was occupied by something infinitely bigger and better!


At 6:30 am, Ashish and I awoke to climb Table Mountain and caught the city sparkling at sunrise.
At first treading in darkness, we had the pleasure to watch a candy cotton sky turn tangerine as the sun peeked over the ridge and splashed the table’s face with a fiery red glow before daylight drenched  the entire city.




A warm breeze and clear sky awaited us at the summit where Adriana and Ariel joined us via cable car.  Together we spanned across Table Mountain’s broad surface, basking in the panoramas that escaped me on the first go-around.






We went down via cable care this time.
:)


Next we boarded the aforementioned Stellenbosch train, while Ariel boarded a homeward-bound plane.

Then there were three and the rest is history. 
Love from Cape Town.  


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