A day in the life of TAC

Sabona!

(Zulu for hello.)

A six hour round trip bus ride brought us to Ermello yesterday, one of the bases of Treatment Action Campaign (TAC).  

 (Historical note: In a decade-long delay that devastated South Africa’s national HIV/AIDS response, the Mbeki administration questioned the entire paradigm of AIDS, disputing the link between HIV and AIDS and the effectiveness of Antiretroviral (ARV) treatment.  

Citing human rights violations, TAC (a behemoth advocacy organization) successfully wielded the courts to force the government to roll out national ARV treatment in 2002.)

 While South Africa's response is now sound on a policy level,  implementation is anemic and there is a dearth of prevention programs that penetrate local communities.

Enter, TAC.

The streets of an Ermello settlement reflect some of the most disadvantaged conditions in South Africa.  

Dirt paths are lined with homes fashioned of corrugated metal and crumbling brick.  

The dust spares nothing.  

It mutes the colorful walls, settles in the fur of the many animals milling about the lawns, works its way into the corners of your eyes. 

We spent the afternoon with TAC reaching out to residents. 

Although slightly reminiscent of a ghost town (most are up pre-dawn to work at the mines and return after the clinics close, which means free contraceptives escape them) we  spread the word about HIV to those we encountered, distributing condoms, espousing the benefits of circumcision, and urging people to get tested.

Toting contraceptives and information

Sibusiso lead us around the community

  We spoke with one grandmother raising her 3 grandchildren alone. HIV took the lives of both parents, leaving behind AIDS orphans, all too common in South Africa. 

Worse, supported only by subsidies, the grandmother must dedicate all of her resources to the youngest boy.

Just 4, he became HIV positive when his mother breastfed him without seeking Preventive Mother To Child treatment (PMTC) before she passed.

Not all encounters were so heartbreaking. 

One bashful teenage girl took some condoms for her brother; another jovial man took a whole box (200+!) to distribute to his coworkers.  

My giveaways vanished within 10 minutes. 

On the whole, the residents welcomed us and were receptive to TAC’s message, which they broach with such sensitivity and respect.

No doubt, this town witnesses great tragedy.

  But I also saw gratitude.

 And happiness. 

And hope.  

It was a joy and a unique honor to have my feet on the ground with this world-renowned organization full of such passion and dedication. 

With Sizwe and Tandi

Clearly much work is to be done, but South Africa’s current president, Jacob Zuma, has turned around the nation’s response into something about which it can be proud.

I asked Sizwe, TAC’s lead representative,

 “Will Zuma be reelected in 2014?”

“Of COURSE!”

TAC adores the President.

They anticipate that 5 more years of his leadership will transform excellent policies to concrete action.

Optimism from the national policy’s most caustic critic and the response effort’s most ardent advocate is a good sign—there is great promise on South Africa’s HIV/AIDS front.

 

Our last nippy night in Joburg was warmed by good food, good company, and good iPhone music. 

Every morning we’ve been stealthily pocketing croissants from our decadent breakfast spread to consume for lunch, and, on this evening, dinner.  Because, after all, we are on a budget. :)

Yabonga (Thank you), Johannesburg, for such a thought-provoking stay.

We left for Rustenburg this afternoon and will arise bright and early for Safari in Pilanesberg National Park.

Salakahe!

(Zulu for goodbye.)

Love from Rustenburg.