Catch-up on the Cape of Good Hope

There’s something magical about standing at the tip of the world.

Legend has it that magic brews because the Cape of Good Hope is where the warm Indian Ocean and the cool Atlantic mix.

I imagine that it was the beauty of the coast that captivated all the captains who sank their ships on the shoals trying to reach this continent.  

Historical Note: although de Gama gets all of the credit, we ought to remember Diaz, who captained de Gama’s sister ship.  

That vessel, too, rounded the Cape but then perished on the rocks, never to return to Portugal.

Fun fact: The South African Cape Floral Region is by far the smallest of the world’s plant kingdoms. Its diversity secured it the honor of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although it encompasses only the very tip of South Africa, this kingdom contains more species than the entirety of Europe.

It was our tour guide, Andrea, who imparted such tidbits of wisdom as

we meandered along the cape, once, coming full stop for a wayward ostrich.

 A mischievous audience of baboons lines the coastal road that weaves around 12 peaks known as the Apostles, perpetually blanketed in wisps of mist. The route is full of bustling beach towns that were sleepy as we passed through given the winter. 

It’s strange to think that the white sand coves where privy to whites only just a few years ago.

While we didn’t see a colony, we did spy a penguin couple in one of the quiet villages. Knowing that they mate for life make their antics all the more precious. Attached at the hip, they consult each other with robotic tilts of the head before taking itty bitty steps in unison towards the discussed destination.

Ah, love.

Can you spot them?

We paused in Fish Hoek for a fish and chips fix before journeying inland to Stellenbasch for a taste of South Africa’s acclaimed wines.

 Unlike the rest of the continent, the Cape has a markedly Mediterranean climate with 4 distinct seasons that allow the vines to flourish.

I’d say they sure do! South Africa's signature grape is Pinotage,known for its divine earthiness. 

We visited Fairview (fairly notorious in the US) and it’s cousin, Spice Route, which included a cheese and dark chocolate tasting.

Bonus!

                                                                                                   

They say that South Africa’s wine is comparable to Napa’s but that the beauty of its wine country is second to none.  

I’ve now been to both and both are gorgeous.

And, the truth is, my palate isn’t sophisticated enough to discern superiority in the wine! 

Consider the aesthetics and tell me what you think!

Love from Cape Town.

A slight change in plans

I postponed my bus to Gaborone for a wee three days because the Cape is just to gorgeous to go!

It's been a whirlwind!

But don't fret--I'll have 20+ hours on the bus to bring you up to speed. 

:)

See you soon Botswana!

 Love from Cape Town.

Catharsis in Khayelitsha

I was placed on garden duty and could not have been more pleased with the deities of random selection.

  

You can smell the life oozing from all the green.  Just the feel of soft dirt of the furrowed rows beneath your feet is soothing.  
And weeding! Now, that is satisfaction. 
(See my handiwork below.)

Gardening brings you back to life's essentials.  
Harmony.  Sustenance.  Growth.  Protection.  Love. 
We forget that it is the essentials that beget the most happiness. 

The garden is just one of the countless endeavors of the Ilso Care Society, an NGO nestled within the Khayelitsha township, with whom we spent the day. 




The fruits of the garden go directly to hungry community mouths via Ilso's  daily soup kitchen, but the organization doesn't stop there. 
Ilso also provides schooling and shelter for local AIDS orphans and teaches income generating skills to anyone with a will to learn. 
Their multifaceted approach to sustainability is special and such a gift to the community.

Khayelitsha is a quintessential slum that neighbors Cape Town, but the mountains that stand over it like sentinels and the vibrant colors that infuse it present the most striking visual dichotomy I have ever witnessed. 
The contrast continues--most residents literally have not a rand to their name, and yet, they are some of the most gracious, vivacious people I've ever had the pleasure to meet. 
I was equally inspired and humbled, but above all, deeply touched. 
The next time I want to whine about New York City produce, I'll check my attitude at the door with the memory that two thirds of Ilso's garden lay fallow--overgrown and swirling with snakes because they simply could not afford the seeds to plant it. 

We decompressed from the day with a venture to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. 

Today we visited Mothers2Mothers.  
I have no photos but suffice it to say that the women of this amazing organization with humble beginnings in Cape Town have catalyzed a powerful rising global tide against Mother to Child HIV transmission. 
Although South Africa still has an uphill fight, M2M is the poster child for how the nation can effectively lead the African AIDS response effort (the focus of my research!) so it was nice to end on this optimistic note.

Awash in yellow afternoon light and perched around the guest house pool, sea to our left, mountains to our right, we gave our oral research presentations.

(I.E., for my final two days in South Africa I am officially on vacation!)

Hooray!


Penguins, here I come.
Love from Cape Town.

Table Mountain

It was when we heard the thunder clap echo through Platteklip gorge that we knew we were in trouble.

Until then, the hike up Table Mountain was challenging but stunning.

By challenging, I mean excruciatingly steep (we were under the impression it would be a leisurely jaunt) and by stunning, I mean the panoramics of Cape Town from our position perched high above were absolutely enchanting.

Soon after the menacing thunder, however, we stepped into a curtain of mist.

That's my "uh-oh" face

Naturally, when we arrived at the summit, we saw none of the miraculous views that the top of Table Mountain promises.  Or Baboons.  I’m sure they scattered far before the pea-sized sensory portion of the human brain registered the impending storm.  On a positive note, we didn’t have to worry about them stealing our cameras.

  (I’ve heard they’re kleptomaniacs.)  

Anyway, good thing we took photographs en route.

On our return, we chose to hike down rather than take the cable car.  That was a poor life decision. 

(Thank you, Patrick.)

The mist became rain, the temperature dropped, and the gorge became a wind tunnel.  

This was the way down:

It was a painfully slow dance. Gingerly negotiating the  slick, steep rock  meant the journey down was longer than the climb up.

Although much better prepared than the Europeans we passed heading up the mountain in spaghetti strap tanks and Converse, we were still ill prepared.  

Thank goodness for my hat--it saved me! My pack, such a burden on the scorching ascent, actually kept my core dry on the way down. 

(The prognosis of my iPhone however, is unclear. It's currently spending the night in a bowl of rice.) 

But what is life without some adventure!

In a stroke of irony, as we reached the bottom, the weather broke.  

When I turned around to peer at the mountain top still wrapped in clouds, I was greeted by this--the sweetest cherry atop the entire experience.  

Before the bipolar weather, Adriana and I went for a run about the reservoir that instantly slowed to a stroll because we were captivated by the wee hours of the Cape Town morning:

We're staying among those little houses somewhere

Dear Mother Nature,

I have always adored you, but have a deeper respect for your authority after the show you put on today.

We'll meet again on Kilimanjaro!

Love from Cape Town.

Hello, Gorgeous!

No pictures yet, but Cape Town is gorgeous!  

The mountains were a surprise; somehow I didn't get that memo. 

I do have pictures from travel day that are slightly comical;

those backpacks are bigger than we are.

For our first night out in Cape Town we had exquisite Indian.  

This morning we went for a refreshing hilly run 

(Side note: We're staying directly beneath Table Mountain and if I had scenery this beautiful, I'd run every day!)

We spent the afternoon with the Impumelelo Social Innovations Centre and then inflicted further financial damage at Green Market Square.  

But, oh, did I pick up some darling goodies!

A mid-trip shout-out to our group leaders: My adviser and professor, Jens... 

...and one of NYU's MSGA Admins, Patrick, clearly hard at work with logistics. 

P.S.

Look what I found!

Happy Lexi.

:D

Love from Cape Town.